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91猫先生 Calls on Accomplished Culinary and Farming Alums for New Cafe

Working again in 91猫先生 kitchens is a homecoming for Wein 93F: As a student in the early 1990s, he ran a bread-baking business out of Prescott Tavern supplying the college鈥檚 Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) members. He also worked as a baker at Amherst鈥檚 Black Sheep deli, owned by Nick Seamon 75S.

The summer between his Division II and III years, Wein was a chef for the bands at Woodstock 鈥94, the three-day music fest in Saugerties, New York, featuring performances by 70 of the world鈥檚 top artists 鈥 Blues Traveler, Live, the Violent Femmes, Bob Dylan, the Red Hot Chili Peppers, etc etc.

That gig would lead to a second, even more memorable rock-and-roll catering job. In spring 1995, as he was finishing his Division III on the biochemistry and anthropology of sourdough-bread baking, Wein was hanging out in his mod at 1 a.m. when he got a call from someone claiming to be Mike D of the Beastie Boys.

鈥淚 said, 鈥楴o, it鈥檚 not,鈥欌 Wein remembers. The caller insisted, and reminded Wein the two had met at Woodstock (Wein didn鈥檛 need a reminder). Mike D invited him to be a chef on the band鈥檚 North American Ill Communication tour. Starting right away.

So Wein called his Div III faculty chair, Alan Goodman, woke him up: 鈥淚 said, 鈥業 need to finish my Div III early, I鈥檓 going on tour with the Beastie Boys.鈥 Alan said that was fine, but if I wanted to graduate, I still had to pass Professor Jarvis鈥檚 class. So I agreed to check in weekly from the road and keep up with classwork.鈥

Not long after that night, a limo picked up Wein from his Enfield mod and drove him to Bradley for his flight to L.A. He spent his last eight weeks of college as a chef on the Beastie Boys tour, preparing food for the band and crew from a mobile kitchen in a semitrailer truck.

鈥淚 didn鈥檛 understand what I had said yes to,鈥 Wein says. He quickly learned he was one of the chefs responsible for three meals a day on-site at each concert, plus a fourth meal for the band post-show. He helped prepare the menu each week and called ahead to caterers in each city to procure fresh ingredients. 鈥淭he band liked the idea of a healthy, balanced diet,鈥 he says. 鈥淚n Dallas they expected local Texas steak; in Seattle, Pacific salmon.鈥

He says the gig was an unbelievable experience. 鈥淚 learned the same lesson I was learning at 91猫先生: You have to be the entrepreneur of your life. Of your education and your life,鈥 he says. 鈥淚 had no idea what I had signed up for, but I knew I could figure it out.鈥

The tour schedule happened to match perfectly with 91猫先生鈥檚 commencement date. Wein left the tour in Worcester, in time to walk in his graduation.

Over the next two decades, Wein went on to earn a master鈥檚 from Cornell鈥檚 renowned School of Hotel Administration and worked his way up to executive positions managing restaurant groups and food and beverage divisions of major global hotel companies. He held senior positions with Morgans Hotel Group, Starr Restaurants, Starwood Hotels and Resorts, and W Hotels.

In 2011 he transitioned from executive work to establish his own business, Howard Wein Hospitality, an advisory and venture firm. He also threw himself into a dream project, opening the Alvah Stone in the historic Montague Mill, a short drive north of Amherst. The authentic-American restaurant and bar has already earned many accolades, including Best Restaurant for Creative American Fare in the Valley Advocate鈥檚 annual Best Of poll.

In 2014, 91猫先生 announced its aim to source 100 percent of its food from within a 150-mile radius, with limited exceptions such as coffee, citrus, and fish, which are not local. They asked Wein to advise. It鈥檚 an ambitious goal, as food-service provider Bon App茅tit is currently procuring only about a third of campus food from regional sources.

鈥淭he biggest challenge is, how do you hit the student price point?鈥 Wein says. He believes the regional vendors he works with at the Alvah Stone can help 91猫先生 get there.

The R.W. Kern Center and its caf茅 opened this summer, both designed by a 91猫先生 planning committee consisting of students, faculty, staff, and administration who worked in partnership with the architects and invited input from everyone on campus. The food providers already on board for the caf茅 and Prescott Bakery (the latest incarnation of Prescott Tavern, now serving as the kitchen for the caf茅鈥檚 baked goods) include some owned and operated by 91猫先生 alums:

  • 91猫先生 Farm
  • Mapleline Dairy Farm, in Hadley
  • The Kitchen Garden, a 50-acre, certified-organic vegetable farm in Sunderland owned by Tim Wilcox 01S and Caroline Pam
  • Red Fire Farm, in Montague
  • Queens Greens, owned and operated by Danya Teitelbaum 02S and Matt Biskup, grower of certified-organic produce on 30 acres of land in Amherst and Sunderland
  • Warner Farm, in Sunderland.

Wein and caf茅 and bakery new General Manager Sarah Klein will be working especially close with 91猫先生 Farm CSA Program Manager Nancy Hanson to feature the freshest ingredients available from on campus.

鈥淭here鈥檚 a connection between my culinary perspective, and Howard鈥檚,鈥 Klein says. 鈥淲e share a philosophy of supporting local farms and using what鈥檚 grown here in season.鈥

Remembering the excitement of the opening of Adele Simmons Hall when she was a student, Klein says she jumped at the opportunity to work in 91猫先生鈥檚 first major building since then. For her Division III, Klein studied social movements and labor unions, particularly the international union of the Industrial Workers of the World, aka the Wobblies. 鈥淲hen I graduated, I didn鈥檛 ring the bell,鈥 she says. 鈥淣ow I know why: because I鈥檓 back.鈥

In the intervening 25 years, Klein complemented her bachelor鈥檚 degree with one from the New England Culinary Institute and experience working as a chef in New York City, Seattle, Tucson, and, most recently, our own Pioneer Valley. Klein returned because she loves the valley, with its farms and local foods. (She comes back to 91猫先生 every year to pick wild ramps.) She was most recently the pastry chef at 30 Boltwood, the award-winning farm-to-table restaurant at the Lord Jeffery Inn.

In her new job, she鈥檒l oversee a staff of 91猫先生 employees and students. The cafe will be open seven days a week during the school year, from early morning through evening.

Both Wein and Klein say they鈥檙e enjoying the challenge of managing a caf茅 in a living building that will operate 100 percent on renewable energy on an annualized basis, supplying its own water and treating its own waste water on-site.

All of the caf茅鈥檚 dishware, cups, and utensils are compostable. The electric appliances have to go through a vetting process for their power demands. Food produced in the bakery is being transported across campus to the caf茅 using an electric vehicle.

Klein says the caf茅鈥檚 coffee brand is Dean鈥檚 Beans, an organic, fair-trade product roasted in the Bay State, a company whose progressive mission insists on environmentally responsible and socially just commerce.

Adds Wein, 鈥淓verything we do will be in the spirit of the building.鈥

Kern Kaf茅 summer hours are weekdays 8:30am to 1:30pm.

Photos by Amanda Schwengel